This is a photo guide to the Lake District Inn Way which we walked in September 2007. It is a fantastic circular walk created by Mark Reid, taking you through the beautiful Lakeland landscape. The route passes 44 traditional English pubs, many of which have a unique range of local Real Ales.
This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We have also collected together details of the accommodation we stayed in.
We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.
Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.
Rachael & Mark.
Introduction
Day 1 - Saturday 8th September
Ambleside to Grasmere
8 miles, 3 3/4 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
The first day should be from Ambleside to Rosthwaite but we split it into two sections for a few reasons. We had to travel up from Suffolk which took around six hours, not leaving much time for walking. We could have simply started the walk on Sunday, but found it impossible to book any accommodation in Ambleside for a single night at a weekend. As we had the extra days available we decided to spread the holiday out a little.
This meant we had plently of time to visit some of the numerous pubs on the first day. The route lists 16 pubs on the first stage, 8 of which are in Ambleside. We decided to save 3 for the final day when we return to Ambleside. The places we visited were:.jpg)
1) Salutation Hotel, Ambleside - 11:40am
A smart hotel lounge bar. Comfortable seating, very quiet. Nice coffee..jpg)
2) Churchills, Ambleside - 12:00pm
Large air conditioned, open plan modern pub with TV screens..jpg)
3) Royal Oak, Ambleside - 12:30pm
Small cosy bar. Seating outside in a sunny spot..jpg)
4) White Lion Hotel, Ambleside - 12:45pm
Family friendly food pub. Large indoors, limited seating outdoors..jpg)
5) Unicorn Inn, Ambleside - 1:30pm
Very cosy, friendly traditional pub. Good beer.
With our rucksacks packed we finally set off from Bridge House in Ambleside at 2:30.
We began with a gentle stroll along the track towards Rydal Hall. At Rydal we took a short detour down past the church to reach the next pub of the day..jpg)
6) Badger Bar, Rydal - 3:25pm
On busy road, but nice beer garden. Lots of badger items inside. Seemed very dark after the bright sunshine.
Retracing our steps we returned to the path continuing through woods towards Grasmere. There were occasional glimpses of Rydal Water through the trees. The water looked very inviting on such a hot day.
Leaving the woods, there was a tough climb up towards Alcock Tarn. This was hard going for our first day in the hills. We were rewarded with great views over Grasmere lake and back along the length of Windermere.
The route then dropped just as steeply back down to the valley to reach two more pubs on the roadside..jpg)
7) Travellers Rest, Grasmere - 5:30pm
A nice floral pub with great views over to Helm Crag..jpg)
8) The Swan, Grasmere - 5:50pm
A very smart hotel bar. Seating outside on busy road but with good view of Grasmere.
After these quick stops we walked through Grasmere village and found our B & B for the evening - Banerigg Guest House.
After freshening up we returned to the village for the final two pubs for today..jpg)
9) Lamb Inn, Grasmere - 7:45pm
A very busy popular pub..jpg)
10) Tweedies Bar, Grasmere - 8:15pm
A lovely small bar with huge garden. Hosting the 1st Grasmere beer festival. A very good food menu here.
Day 2 - Sunday 9th September
Grasmere to Rosthwaite
12 miles, 7 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
Having cut the first day short we added on a little extra by walking round Grasmere lake back into the village. Here we stopped for morning coffee at the remaining pub to visit in Grasmere.
11) Dove and Olive Branch, Grasmere - 10:55am
A very compact bar. Part of the Wordsworth Hotel.
Leaving Grasmere behind we took the long, gradually climbing
path up Far Easedale.
On reaching Greenup Edge the mist descended, cutting off any distant views for a time. The last time we were here, walking Coast to Coast, conditions were pretty much the same. The route between Rosthwaite and Grasmere is common to both paths and so we met several people walking the opposite way.
As we descended towards Lining Crag the mist cleared, opening views to Derwent Water.
From the top of Lining Crag we could see clearly down Greenup Gill. The many drumlins and different vegetation formed a patchwork of colours below.
After a short steep section down the edge of Lining Crag we
followed the gill past Eagle Crag on a more gentle incline. 
We briefly detoured up beside Langstrath Beck, across the footbridge and then continued along the other bank of Stonethwaite Beck into Stonethwaite. Here we reached the next pub of the journey.
12) The Langstrath Inn, Stonethwaite - 3:45pm
A very friendly bar. Great food. Highly recommended.
After booking a table at the Langstrath to eat later, we moved along to Rosthwaite and the final pub for the day.
13) Riverside Bar, Rosthwaite - 4:40pm
A large open bar. Nicer inside than the approach suggests.
Final stop was the B&B for the evening, Gillercombe in Rosthwaite.
Day 3 - Monday 10th September
Rosthwaite to Braithwaite
13.5 miles, 8 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
Another bright sunny day and the view from the bedroom window made us keen to get started. Today was our first 'full' day stage.
We left our B&B and took the footpath along the River Derwent to rejoin the route just outside Rosthwaite.
It was then a steep climb up Tongue Gill, passing through Rigghead Quarries. There are lots of mine entrances here.
Once through the quarries the going got easier and there was only a further short climb to the summit of High Spy.
From the top of High Spy there were clear views towards Grasmoor and Grisedale Pike to the West, and Causey Pike and Bassenthwaite Lake to the North.
The following stage was a fairly easy ridge walk along Maiden Moor towards Catbells. There were great views across Derwent Water to Keswick, Skiddaw and Blencathra.
Dropping down into the Newlands Valley we headed for the lunchtime pub stop for today.
14) Swinside Inn, Newlands Valley - 2:30pm
A friendly feel, great views from the beer garden. Unfortunately we were too late for food as they stop serving at 2pm.
Crossing to the far side of Newlands Valley we climbed on a track above Stonycroft Gill between Barrow and Causey Pike. Looking back we could see Catbells framed between the two.
We descended from Barrow Door into Braithwaite to reach the next pub.
15) Coledale Inn, Braithwaite - 5:10pm
A quiet bar, nice garden but lacked atmosphere.
After a short break we dropped our bags off at our B&B, The Sidings.
Later on we visited the other two pubs in Braithwaite.
16) Middle Ruddings Country Inn, Braithwaite - 8:00pm
A comfortable relaxed bar. Very good food.
17) Royal Oak, Braithwaite - 9:30pm
A lively pub with a cosy friendly feel.
Day 4 - Tuesday 11th September
Braithwaite to Buttermere
12.5 miles, 7 1/2 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
There wasn't a cloud in the sky as we set off from Braithwaite. From outside the B&B we had a view towards the hills surrounding the Coledale valley.
Leaving Braithwaite we walked passed some pretty vine covered outbuildings.
We then followed the long track leading up Coledale valley to the Force Crag mine buildings. 
From here we crossed Coledale beck and began the steep climb up to Coledale Hause.
Paths radiate out from here heading up to the surrounding peaks. Looking back we could see Skiddaw and Blencathra in the distance.
Our path headed down into Gasgale Gill alongside some waterfalls. The path here was quite worn in places.
The valley is very pretty, carpeted with heather and lots of small tumbling waterfalls as the Liza Beck makes its way down. The combination of sunshine, smell of heather and sound of water made this a very enjoyable part of the walk. Towards the end there were a few sections of path where some scrambling was needed.
Eventually the valley opened out with views over Crummock Water towards Mellbreak and Loweswater Fell.
We then reached the next pub of the walk.
18) Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater - 2:30pm
A cosy welcoming pub. A good selection of their own Loweswater Beer. Good views from the garden.
The final section of the walk today followed the shore of Crummock Water. By now the cloud had dropped and was covering parts of the valley we had descended.
We then reached Buttermere and found our accommodation - Buttermere Youth Hostel. Here we had our own room.
For the evening we had two further pubs to visit.
19) Bridge Hotel, Buttermere - 6:30pm
An interesting old building, however very quiet. Good basic pub food.
20) Fish Hotel, Buttermere - 7:45pm
A large bustling open plan bar. A good range of beer.
Day 5 - Wednesday 12th September
Buttermere to Boot
15 miles, 9 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
The first section of the walk today was along the edge of Buttermere. Once again we had ideal weather. Bright and sunny, with no breeze either so the water was perfectly calm.
The lake looked amazing with reflections mirrored everywhere so it took a while to get to the far end.
At the end of the lake the path turned up hill to climb Scarth Gap Pass. This is also the most direct route up to Hay Stacks and so was quite busy with walkers.
As we neared the top we had a final view back along to Buttermere.
When we reached Scarth Gap, everyone went off in separate directions. Our way was to descend into Ennerdale rather than continue up to any of the nearby summits.
On reaching the valley floor the path briefly joins with the route of the Coast to Coast walk to pass Black Sail Hut Youth Hostel.
Very shortly afterwards we crossed the River Liza and turned to climb up Black Sail Pass.
As we climbed the steep path up, Black Sail Hut shrank behind us to become a little dot in the vastness of Ennerdale. There were wonderful clear views back across to Hay Stacks and Brandreth.
At the top of Black Sail Pass was a very disused stile. After a short rest and a chat with some other walkers we began a long descent into Mosedale.
The descent path started steeply down, then became more gradual. Ahead the steep scree slopes of Yewbarrow dominated the view.
As the path levelled out we reached Gatherstone Head, crossing the beck near a small waterfall.
We took a last look back up Mosedale with Pillar at the end before turning into Wasdale Head.
21) Wasdale Head Inn, Wasdale - 2:10pm
Welcoming bar brewing it's own Great Gable Beers. A few outside tables with good views.
Leaving Wasdale Head the patchy cloud threw shadows across Great Gable.
We passed the head of Wast Water then followed a track up on to Eskdale Moor.
From the end of the track a cairned path led us across the open moor towards Burnmoor Tarn. The ground became wetter underfoot as several small streams fed into the tarn. In some of these little fish darted away as we splashed through. We crossed Whillan Beck at Bulatt Bridge.
There was then a long but gentle descent to Eskdale and the village of Boot.
22) Boot Inn, Boot - 5:30pm
A lovely old pub. Staff very welcoming despite being very busy. Lovely garden.
23) Brook House Inn, Boot - 5:45pm
Nice, although we didn't stop for long.
After a brief stop in the two pubs we left the village passing the church. The fells surrounding Eskdale looked lovely as the evening light fell on them.
Our B&B was about a mile further on, at Penny Hill Farm.
For the evening we had one more pub to visit.
24) Woolpack Inn, Boot - 5:30pm
Very quiet. Own brewed beers with unusual taste.
The Woolpack were short staffed, so they wouldn't serve food except to residents. This meant we had to walk back into the main village again where we returned to the Boot Inn for a meal. We weren't disappointed as the menu here was excellent and it was a lovely evening so we sat outside.
Day 6 - Thursday 13th September
Boot to Broughton in Furness
15 miles, 9 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
This was the first day where the weather didn't look too promising as we set out. Leaving Penny Hill Farm behind, we climbed up towards Harter Fell. 
This was quite a steady climb for first thing in the day. As we gained height we could see up towards the head of Eskdale, and Hard Knott.
Through Dunnerdale Forest the path was quite wet in places. The track here took us around the slopes of Harter Fell.
Leaving the main forest track we followed a meandering path alongside Grassguards Gill. This was a very pretty area of flowering heather and varied grassland, leading down into the Duddon Valley.
After passing Grassguards Farm much of the coniferous woodland has been cleared, replaced by a plantation of native Rowan, Birch and Juniper. There were open views back to Harter Fell. Ahead the track curved around Wallowbarrow Crag before descending down to Seathwaite.
25) Newfield Inn, Seathwaite - 12:45pm
A lovely cosy inn. Wonderful patterned slate floor. Good lunchtime food.
Having refuelled we headed up Park Head Road, a bridleway through Dunnerdale Fells. This was a long gentle climb along a clear rocky track. Looking back along the track we could still see Harter Fell, with Bowfell and Crinkle Crags now visible in the distance.
There were lovely views down into the Duddon Valley.
At the end of the track views opened out towards the Lickle Valley and we could see the sea at the Duddon Estuary. After following a narrow footpath through bracken we descended to the road, crossed over the River Lickle and arrived at Broughton Mills.
26) Blacksmith's Arms, Broughton Mills - 4:00pm
Closed when we arrived. However we returned on our journey home and it was well worth it. Amazing pub and great food.
Returning to the footpaths we headed through several farm fields to reach the edge of Broughton in Furness.
27) High Cross Inn, Broughton in Furness - 5:30pm
A quiet, smart bar with a lovely log fire.
Heading into the town centre we found the final three pubs for the day.
28) Old Kings Head, Broughton in Furness - 6:00pm
A welcoming relaxed bar. Very smart.
The next inn was also where we were staying for the night.
29) The Black Cock Inn, Broughton in Furness - 6:30pm
An old beamed inn with low ceilings giving a very cosy feel. A very welcoming pub.
30) Manor Arms, Broughton in Furness - 9:15pm
A comfortable busy bar with a good beer selection.
Day 7 - Friday 14th September
Broughton in Furness to Coniston
14 miles, 8 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
We left Broughton through a series of farm fields and meadows before a short climb on to Thornthwaite Latter Rigg. The walking was easy going, with ever present views of the Old Man of Coniston in the distance.
We crossed Green Moor beck on a little stone bridge, then continued on to Woodland Fell.
The area here was very pretty grassland with heather and gorse in flower.
The path then formed part of the Cumbria Way (a walk we plan to do next year). Here we passed by two tarns, Beacon Tarn and Torver Tarn, before reaching Torver and two pubs.
31) Wilson Arms, Torver - 2:30pm
A bright bar, but limited beer selection.
32) Church House Inn, Torver - 2:45pm
A smart bar with nice decor and comfy seats. Good coffee!
Leaving Torver we walked up a good bridleway towards Banishead quarry. Here we were surprised by a waterfall pouring in to the old quarry.
The Old Man of Coniston now looked much larger as we continued upwards to reach the Walna Scar Road. From here we descended along the track to reach Bowmanstead just outside Coniston, and the next pub.
33) Ship Inn, Coniston - 5:10pm
Looked nice, but unfortunately did not open until 6pm so we never got to see inside.
There was just a short easy walk from here to reach Coniston where we stopped in one more pub before finding our B&B.
34) Sun Hotel, Coniston - 5:45pm
A busy friendly pub with large open fire.
We called in to Dixon Ground Farm next to drop off our bags and clean up before heading in to town for food and the final three pubs for the day.
35) Black Bull Hotel, Coniston - 8:00pm
Very busy bustling pub. Large but friendly. Good food and beer.
36) Crown Hotel, Coniston - 9:10pm
Very busy pub with sport on large screen TV.
37) Yewdale Hotel, Coniston - 9:30pm
Large open bar, not much character.
Day 8 - Saturday 15th September
Coniston to Great Langdale
13 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including route detour)
About the day
This was another stage of the walk that we had decided to split over two days. Rather than going to Ambleside, we would stop at Great Langdale leaving a short walk for the last day before travelling home.
The cloud lingered low over the fells as we left Coniston.
At Miners bridge the waterfalls of Church Beck were quite impressive.
We debated whether to take the high or low level route as we continued up the track towards Coppermines Valley. Although it was misty, the weather was dry and forecast to improve so we continued up to pass the Youth Hostel beside Levers Water Beck waterfall.
The path then climbed steeply upwards, giving us a view back down to Coniston Water.
At Levers Water the mist swirled around. The water was very calm and the air so still and quiet. It was very peaceful, and relaxing to watch the cloud dropping and clearing.
Beyond Levers Water the path gradually climbed up to Swirl Hawse. We had one last look back before ascending Prison Band up into the cloud.
It was a steep but enjoyable scramble up to the summit of Swirl How, despite not having any views. On top we were surrounded by mist and the temperature suddenly dropped in the wind.
Whilst taking a picture at the summit the first of many fell runners passed us by at speed and disappeared ahead into the mist.
As we made our way across the Top of Broad Slack we passed the memorial at the site of a crashed wartime Royal Canadian Air Force bomber.
Below Little Carrs we were passed by more and more runners. Dropping down below the mist they descended Wet Side Edge much quicker than us.
We crossed the Wrynose Pass road at the Three Shire Stone and headed on towards Red Tarn between the summits of Cold Pike and Pike o Blisco.
At Red Tarn the cloud had lifted considerably and so we opted to detour to the left up and over Crinkle Crags rather than descend straight down alongside Browney Gill into Great Langdale.
We weren't disappointed as there were extensive views back towards Swirl How where we had come from, and ahead over Pike o Blisco to Windermere, and down the full length of Great Langdale.
After Crinkle #1 the cloud and mist descended again. A hole opened up giving a framed view down into the valley.
The 'Bad Step' at Crinkle #2 proved too big for short legs and large rucksacks and so we detoured around to the left, with visability dropping all the time. We turned too soon to follow a series of small cairns, thinking we had rejoined the main path. Instead we found ourselves heading down Long Top to the North West. Several other walkers had made the same mistake, and so we returned en-masse to the correct path with the aid of GPS. One lone walker had become disoriented and was planning to return to Red Tarn, but decided to continue with the group as we offered to arrange to get him back to his car from Great Langdale.
We didn't see anything much until dropping down out of the cloud at the end of Crinkle Crags to Three Tarns. We then took the long route down The Band to Stool End Farm. On the way down the sun broke through the clouds, shining on to Pike o Blisco.
Rather than stopping off at the Old Dungeon Ghyll we took the direct route along the road to the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel to arrange a lift for Jim back over to his car on the Wrynose Pass.
38) New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale - 6:30pm
Clean friendly relaxed bar. A welcome drink after a tough day.
We then headed on to our B&B, Robinson Place Farm.
We went to Stickle Barn Tavern next for some food, and had to sit outside as it was so busy.
39) Stickle Barn Tavern, Great Langdale - 8:30pm
Busy bar, very crowded
(photo taken next morning).
Afterwards we went to the final pub of the day for a drink.
40) Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale - 9:45pm
Unusual old pub with wooden benches. Nice but very noisy.
Day 9 - Sunday 16th September
Great Langdale to Ambleside
8.5 miles, 4 hours (including pub visits)
About the day
It was raining as we left our B&B, for the first time this holiday. We got a lift back to the path at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel to walk the section that we had missed the day before.
The rain overnight had swelled the falls at Dungeon Ghyll.
We followed a good track, again part of the Cumbria Way, towards the Stickle Barn Tavern and New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.
Here officials were preparing for the Langdale Marathon due to start later that day.
Crossing to the far side of the valley we followed a good path to Oak Howe. The cloud was low, cutting off the normally good views of the Langdale Pikes. Stickle Ghyll waterfall stood out full of water.
At the head of the valley Crinkle Crags and Bowfell were completely hidden from view.
We continued along a good track past Baysbrown Farm through woodland to reach Elterwater.
41) Britannia Inn, Elterwater - 12:00pm
Small cosy bar with good beer. Nice seating area in front.
As we sat in front of the pub the marathon runners passed us by. We felt quite lazy sitting drinking beer as they ran by.
Leaving Elterwater we could see the approaching cloud becoming heavier and rain laden. We could only imagine the familiar view of the Langdale Pikes from here today.
The final section of the walk around Loughrigg Tarn and below Loughrigg Fell to Ambleside was rather wet. We arrived in the town centre and made our way to the nearest pub.
42) Sportsman Inn, Ambleside - 2:15pm
Friendly relaxed pub. Larger and better than expected inside.
After lunch at the Sportsman we headed to the final two pubs left to visit.
43) Queens Hotel, Ambleside - 3:15pm
Large smart bar. Relaxed and comfortable.
44) Golden Rule, Ambleside - 4:20pm
Lovely cosy old bar, full of character.
Finally we returned to Bridge House where we had started out just over a week ago. A thoroughly enjoyable walk, highly recommended!
Accommodation
A list of all the accommodation we used including contact details and web sites.
Click here to see a map of all locations (will open a new window).
1.Grasmere
Banerigg House, Lake Road, Grasmere, Cumbria, LA22 9PW
Contact:
Angela & Martin Clark
Tel: 015394 35204
Web: guesthouse-cumbria.co.uk/
Grid Ref: NY 343 063
Distance from route: 0.8 miles
Cost: £64 - double, en-suite bath room
Comments:
A lovely, large en-suite room with a bath. Very friendly and helpful hosts. Great breakfast in the dining room overlooking Grasmere Lake. Comfortable guest lounge with tea / coffee facilities.
2.Rosthwaite
Gillercombe B&B, Stonethwaite Road End, Rosthwaite, Borrowdale, CA12 5XG
Contact:
Mrs Rachel Dunckley
Tel: 017687 77602
Web: www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk/accommodation/gillercombe/
Grid Ref: NY 247 152
Distance from route: 0.4 miles
Cost: £52 - double, shared bath/shower room
Comments:
Compact room with wash basin. Large smart shared bathroom. Cup of tea and biscuits on arrival. Great views of Borrowdale from bedroom window.
3.Braithwaite
The Sidings, Braithwaite, Keswick, Cumbria, CA12 5RY
Contact (via Braithwaite Farm):
Mrs Clark
Tel: 017687 78411
Web: www.braithwaitefarm.co.uk
Grid Ref: NY 235 241
Distance from route: 0.4 miles
Cost: £60 - double, en-suite bath/shower room; £4.50 - Packed lunch
Comments:
Very spacious and spotlessly clean room. Lovely en-suite bathroom. TV & tea/coffee facilities in the room. Very welcoming and helpful. Wonderful breakfast including cereals, fruit, toast, full english & croissants. Good packed lunch too.
4.Buttermere
Buttermere Youth Hostel, Buttermere, Cockermouth, CA13 9XA
Contact:
Tel: 017687 70245
Web: www.yha.org.uk/find-accommodation/the-lake-district/hostels/Buttermere/
Grid Ref: NY 178 169
Distance from route: 0.25 miles
Cost: £48 - twin bunk room (incl non member supplement); £3.50 - Packed lunch
Comments:
Narrow compact room with wash basin. Good clean shared showers and toilets. Friendly staff. Good buffet style breakfast. Good packed lunch with homemade flapjack.
5.Boot
Penny Hill Farm, Boot, Eskdale, Cumbria, CA19 1TH
Contact:
Margaret and Ralph Jackson
Tel: 019467 23274
Web: www.eskdale.info/eskdaleb&b.html
Grid Ref: NY 194 008
Distance from route: 0 miles
Cost: £45 - double, shared bath/shower room
Comments:
Lovely old farmhouse building with original features. Large comfortable room with shared bathroom and toilet. Nice quiet location.
6.Broughton in Furness
Black Cock Inn, Princes Street, Broughton in Furness, Cumbria, LA20 6HQ
Contact:
David Pike
Tel: 012297 16529
Web: www.blackcockinncumbria.com/
Grid Ref: SD 212 875
Distance from route: 0 miles
Cost: £60 - double, en-suite shower room; Packed lunches available
Comments:
Cosy beamed room with small en-suite shower room. Comfortable room, with TV & tea/coffee facilities. Very friendly efficient staff.
7.Coniston
Dixon Ground Farm, Coniston, Cumbria, LA21 8HQ
Contact:
Mrs Susanna Johnston
Tel: 015394 41443
Web: www.dixongroundfarm.co.uk/
Grid Ref: SD 300 977
Distance from route: 500 ft
Cost: £60 - double, en-suite bath/shower room; £2.50 - Packed lunch
Comments:
Very large, extremely comfortable room with spotlessly clean modern bathroom. Lovely views over Coniston. A welcome cup of tea on arrival. Very friendly host. Tea/coffee facilities in the room. Lovely breakfast and good value packed lunches.
8.Great Langdale
Robinson Place Farm, Great Langdale, Ambleside, Cumbria, LA22 9JS
Contact:
Mrs Vicky Edmondson
Tel: 015394 37214
Web: www.lake-district-farm.co.uk/
Grid Ref: NY 312 063
Distance from route: 0.5 miles
Cost: £46 - double, shared shower room
Comments:
Spacious farmhouse with a very friendly welcoming host. Large bedroom with basin. Shared shower room and separate toilet. Great breakfast.
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